My sister Jessica has arrived in Uganda recently. She is here for a visit and to do some volunteer work with CAP AIDS.
When she arrived the first order of business was a phone call to the parental units. They of course were happy to hear that my follower had arrived safe and sound. The phrase my follower is how Ugandans talk about their younger siblings. My follower means the person born right after you. When I was introducing Jessica to people this way she thought I was just saying it to be funny or something. Half way through today she says "That's a cool way of saying it." I was all huh? Then I clued in and I was responded "Oh you mean my follower. Yeah, it's a pretty cool phrase and it's the easiest way of explaining who you are to Ugandans."
This started me thinking. I haven't really been inspired to blog lately. It's not that there hasn't been a ton going on, simply a lack of inspiration. After watching Jess move around Kampala today I've realized the real reason. Uganda has become familiar and routine. I am no longer entraced by the crazy Kampala traffic. I don't cling to the boda boda seat for dear life but simply sit straight with my hands resting at my sides, like everyone else. Being squeezed into a taxi meant for 14 passengers with well over 20 people no longer causes me to feel squashed. Matooke doesn't tastes like some weird mashed potatoe but simply like matooke, which is always improved by sauce. I don't marvel at the dislays of clothing with the large hips anymore. The 12 gongs signaling mass no longer wake me. Neither does the 6am call to prayer.The lack of hot water doesn't seem abnormal and I don't gasp at the cold shower anymore. I bargain for everything. I am aware that I don't quite pay Ugandan price but I'm happy paying half way between Ugandan price and Muzungo price. I guess that's where I am half way between.
Somethings that still mark me a Muzungo. I won't eat intestines. I don't wear skirts or dresses as much as most women here. I am dying to see animals I've only ever seen in zoos, whereas most Ugandans have never seen these animlas nor do they care to. I can't speak more than one language fluently. Most Ugandans can speak around three languages at least semi-fluently. I don't think 240 UGX per minute is expensive to call Canada. Which for some Ugandans it is and for some it's not. Here like anywhere there are the very rich and the very poor, with a small middle class. I explained Ugandan shillings and the exchange rate to Jess. As I was bringing her around to pick up a few thing, she kept trying to figure out how much they cost (in Canadian dollars). I realized I no longer convert and think in dollars.
I know how much most things should cost and baff at any outrageous Muzungo price I'm offered. After bargaining with a couple of Boda Boda drivers about how much the ride would cost Jess says "You're a very good bargainer." It made me pause and think. Was I a good bargainer? It kinda made me feel slightly guilty. They told us 4000 UGX each. I kneww the ride should cost 2000 UGX. I refuse to pay more and eventually after pretending to walk away they agree. In reality we could both afford to pay 4000 for the ride, but does that mean we should pay it?
I really don't know. I know that most Ugandans think if you don't bargain you're an idiot and deserve to over pay. I've seen that glint of respect in people's eye when I haggle with them and we come to fair price. Like I said half ways between Muzungo and Ugandan price. I don't really know what the "right" thing to do is. I guess I'll have to settle for the in between.
Tracy (who works with CAP AIDS) was just telling me the day before Jess arrived "You've adjusted very well here. You are like a Ugandan." I just laughed. Now I think she's probably half right. I like to think I have adjusted well and I do of course have some things in common with Ugandans, but I could never really be a Ugandan.
I'm looking forward to posting more about the little things. Jessica's fresh eyes have helped me to see the wonder again.
Somethings I love about Uganada:
3. Almost all food is organic and local. No one can afford pesticides and expensive fertilizers.
4. The first price is never the last price.
5. Choma - bbq pork that is amazing with sauce and cabbage.
6. I need to make a short call - means I need the washroom.
7. Taxis are vans that are mini-buses. Special hires are taxi cabs. Boda Boda's are motorcycle taxies. Buses exist but only in town and a new thing.
8. Everyone speaks at least three languages.
9. The pop music from the 80's and 90's that blares at all hours of the day and night.
10. How welcoming, generous, and resiliant the people are.
